Wine is more than natural: the creative genius of Hans Terzer and the new Appius

Wine is the result of the magical combination of many elements: nature, vine, terroir, but there is a factor which is too often considered as secondary, in particular in this latest fashion of “natural” wines. The human factor. People such as Hans Terzer from Cantina San Michele Appiano and other excellent enologists with their inspiration and their art are able to exalt what nature offers in an extraordinary way. They are like sculptors who pick up with care and gratitude a natural material and shape it to interpret a historical moment, a vintage, to stop in time something that is happening. This is, in my opinion, the meaning of Appius, a wine Hans Terzer has been producing since 2010 selecting the best of every vineyard and every vine of San Michele Appiano winery.

Hanz Terzer is one of the most renowned winemakers in the world; his vision, his rigor and his passion have led Cantina San Michele Appiano to be one of the most important wineries in Italy whose award-winning wines are present in the wine lists of the most important restaurants in Italy and in the world. How did a winery reach this prestige and success? I tell it in my book Custodi del vino, in the chapter dedicated to Alto Adige. In addition to reading this fascinating story, you can listen and watch the full interviews I recorded to write it in the Media section.

Back to the wine, Appius every year is different from the previous ones, even in the label, but it keeps as a single denominator the search for excellence starting from the grapes that are harvested from the best plants in the best vineyards of Appiano. Hans wants to interpret the best of every vintage.

Last night I had the honor of sitting next to Hans during the gala dinner for the presentation of the 2017 vintage: a difficult, edgy, turbulent harvest that we find in the tensions of this Chardonnay based wine. A wine that reveals itself little by little, intimidated perhaps by the prejudice it feels in us humans who judge the vintage not to be one of the best. But after an hour in the glass it gave a glimpse of a bright future, of chamomile, licorice, black olives and smoked beech, with fruity notes that slowly peeped out. A wine to keep in the cellar, like an artwork, because yes, wine is not only nature, it is also the genius of the one who thinks of it, shapes it and gives it to the world. Good wine is beauty in all its forms: wild, simple and naïve, but also sophisticated and wise. But always sincere, never artificial.

For more information about Appius visit their website


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Articoli recenti

  • |

    Wine competitions, medals and numbers: do they take away the pleasure of discovery?

    In fact, I believe a good part of the pleasure for a wine lover is in the phase of research, discovery, investigation. Being curious about a new grape, looking for its history, discovering the producers who keep it alive, reading about their business and then, after this journey, finally buying and tasting that wine, will be an immense joy, a cubic joy compared to the bottle rushed from the shelf because it had one hundred stamps on the label and therefore "it must be good". 
  • |

    Wine events’ F.O.M.O, how to fight the anxiety of missing out and select the best to attend

    The anxiety of missing an event does not only concern companies or business opportunities, but also those who attend wine events for pleasure, for passion, perhaps exploring the idea of making it a profession in the future. Here are some advices to select the best tastings or business occasions for yourselves or for your companies.
  • |

    Implementing anti sexism courses in Italy, my proposal to the Minister for Equal Opportunities

    I started dealing with gender gaps, discrimination and sexism one day in mid-January 2020 when I decided that I didn’t want to put up with it anymore, that I didn’t want to “be superior”, “not to react” in order not to “lower myself to the level of the aggressors”. How many times as women have […]
Don't miss a drop of Italian wine

* The compilation of the above form does not storage any data entered, the storage and use of the data will take place only after explicit confirmation contained in the email that will be sent after pressing the "subscribe" button

Back to To

2021 @ Laura Donadoni - All rights reserved / design